Runway Rundown: Spring 2012, New York, The First Two Days

I'm going to split my fashion week thoughts into three. Day 1 and 2 now, the rest later. Otherwise, it's overwhelming and pretty hard to digest. At my old job, runway reviews were my favorite thing to do so I figured I might as well continue the tradition from the comfort of my couch.


Suno
Since the start, Suno has been all about prints and this season is no exception. However, for spring, the duo's signature prints are toned down, but still masterfully. They're applied with a new sophistication that shows the designers have grown up and ensures the relatively new brand is here to stay. The palette is water colored with the occasional use of metallics. The execution is less hip than the past, but I'm loving the ladylike silhouettes and longer hems.

   
Rag & Bone
I may have questioned Rag & Bone's initial foray away from sharp tailored English pieces to a more modern, heavily layered sportswear look, but three seasons in and I'm on board for the ride. For spring, Marcus and David have introduced new fabrics and textures with a sporty, space-age-y feel. Sheer, shiny and even a bit of plastic, mixed together for a expertly layered, slouchy cool. Bold colors were the highlight in their last collection and that hasn't changed. It's going to be a very colorful 2012 indeed!


Jason Wu
There wasn't one piece in Jason Wu's collection that would fit right in with my existing wardrobe. It was feminine, but with a subtly cheeky edge. Ultra feminine, flowy skirts contrasted against uber short, hot pants—the party was either on top, or on the bottom, but never both. Because a Jason Wu gal never reveals too much, or all her secrets, of course. Shades of black and white offset against pink, a daring yellow and ocean blue made for a wearable and completely delightful collection.


Peter Som
Don't put your prints away just yet because they're here to stay for another year. Peter Som reimagined a classic English garden in a series of blown up and bold bright prints for a festive spring 2012. The silhouette was slim, the pieces classic, but with colors bordering on neon it's utterly modern. I'm not sure where the zebra bikini fits in, but come on, it's a zebra bikini. Who says no to that?


Doo.Ri
Every season, I love Doo.Ri just a little bit more. This fall, she impressed with her expert use of jersey in shades of gray and mixed in with fur and leather. For spring, she presented a lighthearted palette of white, nude, purple and yellow. There are even some prints mixed in. Doo.ri also added in some masculine touches with structured collars contrasted against her fluid drapes. I'm digging the new direction and can't wait to see these pieces up close.


Rachel Comey
Rachel Comey has a way with prints that has me coming back season after season. They're never obvious, but textural and unique. For spring, they created depth with a ladylike, loose flowy silouette. Sheer merged with opaque and comfy knit for a look that wasn't just visually stimulating, but made you want to touch everything. It's an earthy elegance that's anything but granola. Heck, if the entire SF dressed like this, it would be a well-dressed city indeed.


BCBG Max Azria
The geometric train has landed at BCBG. Although the clothes felt like I'd seen them before on this year's Rag & Bone and Proenza Runways, that's not to say I didn't like the bright colors and clean lines. The silhouette was loose and flowy with sharp shape detailing. Bold brights are still the focus for spring 2012 and I'm digging BCBG's take on the trend.

All photos: Imaxtree